Christmas

Christmas Eve was spent at Jenny's apartment.  It was a smaller gathering than Thanksgiving, which was nice because we could all share conversation.  There were about 12 people total.  We snacked on popcorn, donuts, hazelnut truffles, hot chocolate, and white Russians!  Her apartment was traditionally decorated and a small Christmas tree adorned her coffee table.  We took turns manning the you-tube Christmas playlists, exchanged presents, and some of us painted our nails.  When I got home, I opened some things sent from home. My sister sent me some holiday edition lotions from Bath and Body works and I really enjoyed the traditional home-made picture calendar from Grammy.  She included some pictures from facebook, so I was really surprised to see my college friends, outer banks friends, and Taiwan friends featured on the February page!

On Chirstmas "morning" ( I slept in, so it was more like Christmas afternoon), I ate breakfast while watching tv episodes on my computer.  I then took the brown line on the MRT to Jinan Rd. to meet friends Rachel and Brian.  The brown line is the newest MRT line and scales Northern Taipei communities.  Since it is exposed to and raised above buildings, it is narrower and most of the time, I don't get a seat.  During my ride, there was a chubby-cheeked baby girl sitting in her stroller looking at me.  She would not stop smiling and was so cute with her mary-jane booties (some I remember Eva having).  As the train pulled into the station, I was really impressed by the station.  Looking out you can see mountains all around, and the Western mecca across the way.  There is an Imax theater there and lots of Westerner geared activities, including, what I've heard called, "the worlds largest ferris wheel."  Rachel and Brian drove their scooter from nearby Neihu where they live.  We wasted no time capturing pictures of everything Christmasy.  There's a department store called "Wego" and outside is a giant purple sculpture of the logo which mimics the Philadelphia Love Park structure.  We walked around the mall where the movie theater and ferris wheel were.  We wanted to see the movie 2012, but it wasn't playing until later that night.  We chose a good day to visit this area because there was a fashion show and movie premier going on at 7, so we would check that out after Christmas dinner at TGI Fridays.

This was the first time I'd been to the franchise in Taiwan, although they can be found in just about every section of Taipei.  They took our name and gave us a number that would be called when our table was ready.  Unlike waiting time in the US, however, we were giving hot chocolate and candy while we waited!  This follows the study I learned about in my Services Marketing class that I had in Australia.  Jana told us that occupied waiting time is faster than unoccupied waiting time, and customers will be happier...which proved true.  Rachel and I wandered around the extensive lingere department of the mall and critiqued the difference in American and Taiwanese bras haha.  Although they're cute, most of the them seemed very structured and were wider under the arm.  We certainly didn't see any huge D, E, F cup sizes or ugly grandma-looking bras either. We were shown to our table by the costumed Friday's staff.  The restaurant was very festive and of course, the menu was just like home.  I had the best chicken sandwich ever!  I know I enjoyed it more here that I would in the US.  A Santa Claus came around to the tables singing "We Wish You a Merry Christmas" and handing out candy...when he got to our table, he made us join in.  It was cute, but kind of embarassing because we were the only Westerners in our section of the restaurant.  Another peculiar thing about our service was they told us exactly how long we would be waiting for our food - "that will be 12 minutes"  "your food will be ready in 2 minutes."  Again, this follows the study, proving that customers who know how long they will be waiting are more satisfied than those who don't know.

When we finished dinner, the stars of "The Treasure Hunter," Jay Chou and Lin Chi Ling had already made their appearance on the red carpet, but were having a photo session in a tent with lucky fans.  We stuck our heads in, and I saw them.  They are really famous here...there were paparazzi and all.  I felt like I was in LA or something.

At night, I got to talk with my family on their Christmas morning.   Everyone, including Ruthie, Nick Nick, and grandparents could see me on the web cam.  Dad also called Mom Mom and I talked to her through my computer on my house phone...she was pretty excited to hear my voice.  They would all be going to New Jersey to visit family on Saturday.  On my Saturday, Grammy told me on Facebook that my Dad gave my mom a big surprise, figuring I had already heard the news,  and "the only issue now would be timing."  My guess was that she got a trip to visit me, but then I saw a picture that said "Pass for 4 for Taiwan."  So I guess my whole family is going to try to come!  I was pretty surprised and excited.  I have already started thinking about when they could visit and what we will do.  I'll get to talk to Mom tonight about it.  My friend Colleen is hoping to visit in February during Chinese New Year, so I feel pretty lucky to have these visitors and am looking forward to 2010!

Merry Christmas Darlings!

Taipei is certainly gearing up for Christmas.  Although, when I ask my students, "What are you excited about for Christmas?  - presents? good food? travel?"  none of these options are their responses.  One girl said she'll sleep.  No one said they will travel out of town or have good food.  This is what I've heard about Christmas here.  It's all about the build up, the pretty decorations and holiday edition merchandise everywhere from 7-11 to department stores, to grocery stores.  My favorite are the holiday edition Pringles - does anyone know if they are in the US?  I don't know what the cans here say, but there is a picture of cheese, and they taste like white-cheddar flavor.  There are Christmas trees of all types lit up everywhere.  I even saw one made out of recycled plastic green bottles.  The kids all know more Christmas carols than I expected.  We'll be singing "We Wish You a Merry Christmas" and "Deck the Halls" tomorrow across the street for whoever is out and about...hopefully that goes alright...  There is a really magical display of lights near the Banciao MRT stop.  As you walk through a park, there's a canopy of blue lights that hang overhead.

The weather here has been really inconstant.  Last week it was 29C and now it's in the low teens.  In fact today, I was so deceived because I think my apartment was colder that the temperature outside.  I was dressed with two pairs of socks and a sweater and jacket, but when I got out to my scooter, I realized it was only 23C.  However, after driving home at night, I'm always frigid when I get inside and have adapted a routine introduced to me by a college roommate, Kristen - shooting a hairdryer up my shirt to warm up.  I usually do this while I'm waiting for my dumpling water to boil.

On to food - the past few weeks, I've been grocery shopping more because I see things in the store that look interesting or remind me of home.  I was also finding that toast in the morning was not tying me over until lunch, so I've been having some hearty muesli (these were 2 for 1 at Jason's Marketplace, a popular Western grocery store in Taiwan, Singapore, and Hong Kong) and 2 eggs.  Seems to suppress my regular runs to 7-11 between classes pretty well.  Taiwanese do cook a lot with eggs, and the woman at the breakfast stand near my apartment knows what I want now on Saturdays - dan bing with corn and cheese (it's like an omelet inside a crepe).  I have been frequenting this place after my Saturday morning classes before a Saturday afternoon "welcome to the weekend" nap.  I don't think there's been a Saturday when I haven't gone out to eat over the past 2 months.  I probably eat more ethnic/Western food here than Taiwanese/Chinese food...at least on the weekend.  This past weekend, we were at a Mediterranean restaurant when shaken by the 6.4 earthquake.  Yes, I could see the walls and door frames moving, though we were on the first floor, and it's been the biggest one in 2009 - but that was the most excitement we had, thank goodness.  Crazy weather all around the globe with the blizzard in the US and Europe, and the Mayon volcano in the Philippines about to erupt any day now.

Two weekends ago I visited a friend in Hsin Chu, about an hour train ride (on the local, slow train) southwest of Taipei.  It was the weekend after my birthday, but I was told I should still commemorate it, and was made to wear a home-made aluminum foil crown at all of the touristy destinations in Hsin Chu - these included the Glass Museum, Market, Buddhist Temple, and Lake Placid (yes, that's what it's called...it's a man made pond outside of the Museum).

My friends and I have been making Christmas Eve/Day plans as well as NYE.  I do have to work Xmas Eve, so I won't be able to attend the church service that some will be enjoying, but I'll be joining them  at Jenny's apartment for gift exchange, board games, carols, and hot chocolate afterwards.  I have Christmas day off, and tentative plans are to meet in Tianmu (western district) for a few hours.  We figured, since you regularly see more Westerners there than Taiwanese, something Chrismasy is likely to be occuring.  Many options have been mentioned for NYE including a party with a view of the fireworks show from Taipei 101.  Since there will be so many people crowded together, cell phones won't be too reliable and the MRT will pretty much shut down...taxis will be crazy (I imagine it being like NYC)...so there's been mention of getting a hotel room for the night.  I do have off on Jan. 1.

I've been listening to Carpenters Christmas music and set up a temporary Christmas tree (a potted plant decorated with candy canes and some ornaments sent by friends, the Kadjeskis :)), but there are things I miss about being home this time of year - Christmas cookies, candles in our windows, the smell of the wood stove burning in the kitchen (we just got a new one, so I wonder if it smells the same?), holiday specials on TV, snow (seeing it, not driving in it), driving around town seeing houses aglow with lights, singing with the SSPC choir, Christmas ornaments and Christmas tree smell.  I must say that in general though, I'm better off than I was last year, packaging holiday baskets at Sherrie's Berries and missing Australia.  I get to help little kids learn a  new language (which isn't that difficult...just exhausting), be with great friends I've met, and experience Christmas in another country.  I'll sure be missing my family on Christmas Eve and during the Christmas morning routine (Aunt Linda's coffee cake, Ruthie being in the middle of everything) but hopefully we'll get to skype at some point.  Merry Christmas to all!

Birthday Weekend

I can't believe I'm going to be 23 tomorrow!  I can't say it really feels like my birthday, but that's how everything "familiar" is here.  Another month wrapped up and has gone by faster than ever.  I rushed out of work after my last class on Saturday, without grading homework, and was home and back in bed by 12:30 - Saturday mornings just take it out of me.  3 hours later, I awoke sweaty and disoriented, not knowing what time of day it was.  Oh, right....it's the weekend before my birthday, I have to go out and celebrate tonight.  Since everyone was up in Taipei last weekend for Thanksgiving and it was such a reunion celebration, this weekend felt like it should be more laid back.

I had been debating over the past few weeks about getting a new coat.  Mom had sent me a fleece-lined windbreaker, which is just perfect for the temperatures here.  However, it's not the most fashionable.  On the way out of Banciao I decided to buy myself a new green, plaid, pea coat as a birthday present to myself.  It's not needed during the day, but is nice to have when the sun goes down, although I was a little warm while walking around.  I decided a "shiba" (professional hair wash/style) was in order.  There are TONS of hair salons here, so I like to try new ones.  This time I chose "Up Cross International Hair Salon."  I will definately go back here!  It is decorated so trendy and colorful inside, and the stylists there have crazy fashions and hair.  Everything is pink, green, and gold.  The waiting room has velvet benches, the shampoo room has "pamper yourself" painted on the wall, the whole place is a lot larger than expected, and they give you free milk tea while you're watching your private tv (built into the mirror).  I met my girlfriends at the MRT and we wandered around the Shi Da area, and settled on "Out of India" for dinner.  I had been there before, and it's the most authentic, delicious Indian food I've ever had.  We met up with two of the guys after dinner and wandered around the Shi Da night market.  The "Engrish" clothing here never ceases to amaze me.  You really wonder where they get the phrases.  I think there's a retarded electronic dictionary that spits out random English words, mixes up some letters, and prints them on the clothing.

Today I slept in with intentions of going to the infamous "Tianmu" aka the foreign ghetto of Taipei.  Apparently you don't even feel like you're in Taiwan because there are more Westerners and Western places than Asian.  I got off at the proper MRT stop and onto the right bus.  I figured I would be able to recognize when to get off the bus by the frequent number of Westerners on the sidewalk and Western restuarants.  Traffic was really bad, and I was on the bus for about 25 minutes when I realized we were passing Shi Lin night market (which I had already passed on the MRT).  I decided to get off here rather than staying on the bus too long and ending up back where I started.  Okay, so today was not my day to see Tianmu...but I did get to rediscover the largest night market in Taiwan for only the second time since I've been here.

This market is so expansive, and last time I only chipped the surface.  I hadn't really eaten much, so I decided to take advantage of the never ending new, and interesting foods.  There is section which is indoors...an area that reminds me of the Paddy's Market in Sydney (in size) but only sells food.  It is pretty crowded, but food cooking everywhere.  I was amazed at the vigor and speed that food was being prepared.  Most of the places had their own table area where you were served.  I'm sure the vendors there make out pretty well by the end of the night.  There are numerous juice and shaved ice stands - it's really an experience at the top of the list of must dos in while Taiwan.  Outside, there are streets filled with vendors and stores, and more food.  Here's what I had (I should have taken pictures of everything) - pork/leek bbq (on a stick), some kind of Middle Eastern chicken wrap, a doughnut, and candied strawberries. 

For some reason, I had more money leftover at the end of the month than normal, so I decided to invest in some more kitchen supplies and hit up Jason's (a Western grocery store - on the scale of Wegmen's).  I should really find out how to get to Carrefour because this is also a Western Grocery store, but more like Giant - not as expensive.  I really wanted to use some of the food mixes Mom sent me, which called for eggs.  I knew I wouldn't find them in the refrigerated section of the Taiwan grocery store, so Jason's was my only option.  I'm really glad I went because I saw a lot of American food that reminded me of home, and the maple syrup was even on sale (they only carry the large bottles...so I think I'll have enough to last me my entire stay).  I don't have an oven, but saw Jello and am excited to make that! haha.  Among other things, I was also thrilled to get some familiar cereal, cheddar cheese, and non-sweetened low fat milk.

What I've learned in 4 months

I’ve been living alone in a foreign, Chinese speaking society for four months. Surely the effects of being here must have made a small impact on who I am today, right? I remember back in July the feeling of diving into the unknown year in Taiwan that was fast approaching. All I knew was I’d be teaching English for a reputable company, living in an apartment somewhere in Taiwan, and hopefully traveling and meeting friends.

Life goes on at home
As much as I miss being at home, and wish I could be there for the holidays I realize that my absence hasn’t really had too much of an impact on my friends and family. Don’t get me wrong, I know I’m missed, but between skype, email, and facebook, I feel just as connected as when I was living at college. The hard part is knowing that a home cooked meal, my own house and friends are a lot more than a car drive away.


People want to help me
I must say, I didn’t have too many expectations about how I would be treated as an expat living in Taiwan, but have been pleasantly surprised at how friendly the Taiwanese are. I’ve heard that Southeast Asian countries, compared to the rest of Asia have less of a focus on religion and would rather work work work, study, and then work some more…thus the 6 day work week. I can definitely vouch for this. Although there are a lot of little shrines and temples in every town, I see the work ethic as being more important to most people I encounter. “Guanxi” (relationship) is very important here. It plays into the whole Yin Yang harmony thing, and with such a focus on work, naturally the working relationship is the most important. “I scratch your back you scratch mine” is very much the attitude at work. If you have a good relationship with your CT, things will be pretty easy….they’ll understand if you need a sub or change a class time. Or, if you mess up, give them a small token like chocolate or tea. I had to do this when one of the subs I organized during my Korea trip did not show up, and my CT had to teach the class. When going out to eat, the servers usually speak a little English, or will find someone who does. The only thing I don’t like is when I start speaking English and they IMMEDIATELY run away, or laugh, and find someone who I will understand…it’s like they won’t even give hand gestures and charades a chance.

There’s more to Chinese food than rice and noodles
If I wanted to, I could easily eat Western food every meal. Admittedly, I do eat Western food a few times a week, but have also found some Taiwanese staples that I eat regularly. When I say “Taiwanese” I mean whatever non Western food I find in Banciao…I’m not sure it’s purely “Taiwanese” because the food here has many culinary influences. A lot of food in Eastern countries' cuisines overlap. Up until about a week ago, I didn’t know that the little fried rice place by my work is actually Korean…I discovered this by looking at the sign and realizing those were not Chinese characters. Hot pot is a pretty Taiwanese thing…it’s raw meat, vegetables, and tofu that you cook at your table in a broth and then dip it in different sauces. I have to be in the mood to eat at a hot pot restaurant…there are lots in Banciao. At Thai restaurants, my favorite dishes are green curry, pad thai, and coconut shrimp. I’ve had Korean bibimbap (rice and vegetables cooked in a clay bowl) which is healthy and tasty.  Japanese-style teppanyaki places abound which are fun with friends. Most anywhere will do stir fry which is always tasty. Then there’s street food which ranges from dumplings to bbq to sushi. I was surprised by how many pasta places there are here. There are also risotto restaurants which are very similar to the pasta ones. Indian is also here, and I can almost always go for a good red curry. The Taiwanese may not cook with cheese, but I’m lucky to have some nice Western grocery stores and Costco where I can find familiar ingredients. There are also some great bakeries here. Ovens in houses may be in short supply, but one walk by Cherry Grandfather and the aroma will pull you in it’s doors to test some of the breads and sweets.

New places, new people
After living in Australia, the Outer Banks, and now Taiwan all in the last 2 years, I’ve met tons of new people. Without them, I wouldn’t have the memories and experiences that I come back to so often. I used to think that moving some where that I know I’ll be leaving at a predestined time kind of gave me a sense of artificial friendship. You get to know the people you’re around pretty well because you’re all going through the same new experiences…but once you leave the place, the chances of seeing each other ever again require a LOT of effort, though the intentions to do so are there when you part. This whole phenomenon, I think, heavily influences anti culture shock and contributes to that feeling of the whole time away "being a dream." Now I know that I don’t form “artificial friendships” with the people I meet abroad, but a new kind of friendship where I share something than can never be recreated; only revisited and reminisced.


Keeping in touch
I really look forward to any contact with home, be it facebook, email, skype, or mail. I’ve been so tickled by the number of cards I’ve received for Halloween, Thanksgiving, and my birthday…from surprising people who I don’t keep in touch with on a regular basis. Catching up with everyone gives me a refreshed perspective and reminds me not take my life too seriously over here because I know there will be something waiting for me when I go home.